Many buildings in Lower Downtown started life as warehouses, rail-related buildings and commercial blocks before being converted into offices, restaurants and lofts. The structure is usually load-bearing brick with heavy timber or steel framing inside. Those materials behave nothing like the steel studs and gypsum board in a newer tower, and a restoration plan built for drywall will not fit them.

How these materials behave when wet

Multi-wythe brick
Absorbs water deep into the wall and can take far longer to dry than a stud wall; the surface dries first and misleads.
Lime mortar
Older mortar is often softer than modern cement mortar and can wash out or be damaged by harsh cleaning.
Heavy timber
Large posts and beams tolerate brief wetting but can check, stain or twist if dried too fast.
Plaster on lath or masonry
Can often be dried in place if it stays bonded; delaminated or sagging plaster is a safety issue.
Old finishes
Paints and coatings in older buildings may contain lead, and some materials may contain asbestos; test before sanding or demolition.

Drywall-office drying versus historic-material drying

Typical modern suite

  • Remove wet base and drill or cut lower drywall to vent cavities.
  • High airflow and dehumidification for a few days.
  • Replace damaged gypsum rather than nursing it.

Brick, timber and plaster

  • Controlled, gradual drying with steady dehumidification instead of heat blasts.
  • Moisture readings taken at depth, not just on the surface, over a longer period.
  • Preserve original material wherever it is sound; remove only what has failed.

A careful sequence for a wet historic interior

  1. Find the entry point

    Roof drains, parapets, window heads and failed mortar joints are common routes for storm water. Fix or temporarily protect the opening before drying starts.

  2. Record the as-found condition

    Photograph exposed brick, timber and trim in detail. In a historic building this record helps later decisions about repair versus replacement.

  3. Remove only what holds water against the structure

    Wet insulation, carpet pad and modern partitions built against the brick usually come out so the masonry can breathe.

  4. Dry slowly and measure

    Use dehumidification and moderate air movement. Track readings in the brick and timber at the same points until they reach a dry reference taken elsewhere in the building.

  5. Repair with compatible materials

    Repointing, plaster repair and timber treatment should match the original materials. Ask whether the contractor has worked on historic masonry before.

Questions to ask before drying starts

  1. How will you measure moisture inside the brick, not just at the surface?
  2. What target are you drying to, and how was the dry reference chosen?
  3. Which original materials do you plan to remove, and why can they not be dried?
  4. Have suspect paints or materials been tested before any sanding or demolition?

General information for Downtown Denver, not a quote or professional advice. In an emergency, call 911.